December 30

It was not a traditional Christmas. In fact it really didn't feel like Christmas at all and that, or maybe the beginning of a little cold, kind of put me off.

But it was a beautiful sunset that descended upon Mazatlan that night and just before dinner Rory and I headed up to the top floor of the Best Western which had an amazing view of the coast and the city behind. Just down the road (and also on the beach) from our hotel was a restaurant that had a band and a gregarious owner happy to wish us a Feliz Navidad. The good music, food, company, and general scene sent my spirits higher and then we got into the spirits—which also helped. After befriending the bar staff at a busy place we stumbled upon, we were given, to our definite detriment, some shots that were on fire and others that could have been. The next day was not fun, but we were in one piece and with Rory handling the motivation we were heading to San Blas.

San Blas is a little fishing/navy/surfing village just west and north of Tepic. The Lonely Planet had highlighted it as a great spot and we've settled into it nicely. Unfortunately we had to go through Tepic, where the people almost unanimously sneered at us, for reasons still unbeknown.

In San Blas we're staying at a place on the beach, a ways out of town called Stoner's Surf Camp. There's a great group of people staying here and it's a quick bike ride to town to stock up on more Cabrito (our favorite tequila).

The first night here we were put into a cabana on the beach. Nothing but sand between us and the ocean, it was a pretty sweet spot. The next day, though, it was booked and we were moved into another cabana which is one of the coolest hotel rooms I've ever stayed in. Sitting above the staff trailer and the kitchen area, our cabana is like a mini a-frame in the sky with a sun room coming off of one side that faces the ocean. A hatch door leads down a ladder 12 or 15 feet to the ground and when you look out from our sun room (that has a mini-couch and lounge chair (where I now find myself) you can see ripening coconuts within reaching distance. At the moment I'm keeping an eye on the sky. The clouds are now a dark purple outlined with hints orange but should brighten as the sun makes its final salute for the day. Rory is out playing in the almost non-existent waves and will be back by the time it's dark. We spent a good part of yesterday on the water and had a ton of fun with some decent surfing success. Tonight we will likely head to what has become our local quesadilla (gringita) and taco stand. For 4 dollars you can eat enough amazing food to almost make you nauseous—as Rory set out to prove last night.

My cold that started in Mazatlan and was supported by our big Christmas night out is almost gone and I think tonight will be prime for getting back on the horse.